it’s possible the plug-in no longer works as it is old. Are you running the plug-in?
Did you press and hold the mode button?
You need to select the plug-in to run with the desktop or mobile app
https://support.theta360.com/en/manual/v/content/plugin/plugin_02.html
Thank you very much for the reply! I didn’t figure out the part on how to run the plugin, as when I turn it on the camera status lamp flashes red and it beeps and then turns off, so I can’t connect it to smartphone. All I can do is to select the plugin from the desktop app, and when I press OK nothing happens. I tried holding the mode button or/and wi-fi button while pressing OK, still no change.
did you use the desktop app to upgrade the firmware of the THETA V?
After the plug-in is installed with the desktop app, then you need to select it from the list with the desktop app.
Disconnect the camera from the USB cable.
Turn the camera on.
Press and hold the mode button.
The firmware is already updated, who gave it to me must have already done that. The issue is that the camera does not remain on, after the status lamp turns red, it beeps and then turns off. Is there another way I can reset it?
If the camera can connect to WiFi, refer to this article.
The camera may have a physical problem.
If you are desperate and planning to throw it away (into the trash) and have the mental energy to keep going, you can try putting the camera into developer mode and refer to my experience:
The technique above may make the camera even more unusable. It is your decision. I’m just sharing what worked for me.
adb shell
reboot bootloader
You can apply for the developer partner program here:
https://www8.webcas.net/db/pub/ricoh/thetaplugin/create/input
This is primarily useful if you are an Android developer or have a friend who is an Android developer. If you or your friend do Android development, then you will be able to assess what adb shell does and also the bootloader.
In my situation, the camera would only stay up for a second before it completely shutdown, so I needed to run the two commands immediately after I turned the camera on.
I do not recommend the above technique as it is long learning process if you are not already and developer. Also, it may make the camera worse.
I’m just sharing my own experience.
I’m not a developer, but i’ve done adb shells commands on mobile phones long time ago, so I applied for the developer program. Yeah, better that throwing it is to try to reboot it. I’ll let you know, waiting for the approval.
LE: so the steps would be: connecting the camera, turning on developer mode, turning on the camera and very fastly sending the commands, right?
That is what I did.
adb shell and then reboot bootloader from inside the cameraI only needed to use the technique above because my camera was shutting down with warning after a second every time. I could not use any other technique to reset the camera due to the short time it was powered on.
You can practice the commands above with an old Android phone (one that you don’t normally use and don’t need).
If the bootloader does not load on the camera, the camera may be bricked and you could be in a worse situation than prior to the attempted fix with the bootloader.
I do not have any additional tricks if the bootloader fails to load.
However, the technique worked for me when my camera was basically dead. So, thought I would share my personal experience. Obviously, this is only something you do when the main other alternative is to throw the camera away.
As you wait for partner program authorization, you can research about reboot android bootloader with a Google search and make your own assessment if you want to give it a try.
Just received my authorisation, and back with one question: I put the camera in developer mode and ran adb.exe but it found no devices attached. In Device Manager I have Ricoh Theta V installed in the Portable Devices, and no drivers in ADB Interface. Tried searching for hardware ID’s but did not find something to work. What would you suggest?
EDIT: Manually installed android usb drivers, did the reboot command and the camera rebooted: still in the same non working state, so it must be hardware issue. Glad I tried that, though. Than you very much!
Sorry to hear that the camera still does not boot.
I suspect it’s a hardware issue. You may be able to buy or get for free a used THETA V with a cracked lens and then use your intact lens assembly with the THETA V with the cracked lens.
Alternately, you may be able to get some money by selling the THETA V as a unit with two good lenses, but will not boot.
BTW, are you sure that your battery is charging?
I replaced the battery on my THETA V.
I used a cheap LI-92B battery that I bought on Amazon for $13 for 2 batteries.
If you have a voltmeter, you could take apart your V (if you plan to get rid of it anyway) and check the voltage of the battery.
I did the battery swap in Mar of 2021 and my camera is still running fine. It’s hold a charge no problem.
I see, that is what I’ll look for. Found about two items on ebay, but the sellers do not ship to Romania, so I’ll just wait. As for the battery, I saw the tutorial and found it very usefull, the disassembly part I didn’t know was that easy. Right now my battery seems to hold the charge.
there are plastic clips that hold the case together. after you unscrew the four screws at the bottom, be gentle and pry apart the case so that you don’t break the clips. The clips are the press to fit type. Size the stick on something like wax paper as you will want to reapply the sticker to the bottom after the camera is reassembled.
this is information on people swapping the lenses.
The lens assembly should be replaced as a single unit. In the article, some people swapped a single lens, but this will introduce stitching errors.
If I were were, I would wait until I found a unit with cracked lens and try to buy it for under USD $50. Alternately, you may be able to sell your unit with working lenses and get back some of your money. If you sell it, just tell people it does not boot and that it is only for parts.
I found one at 55$, but he won’t ship outise US
Bought one with a cracked case, it’s working, I can take pictures with it, but can’t connect to wifi, it says wrong password. I tried “Wi-Fi Reset: Wi-Fi and mode for 8 seconds”, but nothing happends. Am I supposed to do that on or off? Any advices?
EDIT: never mind, it’s working. The steps were not clear to me, so: install plugin, clic on it, disconnect camera, hold the mode button then press the wifi (for some other user like me who found the instructions little too spartan)
oh, wow. You got it working? This is great news. Did you combine the $55 one with the cracked case with your existing unit? Or, are you using a V with a cracked case now? Very cool that you got a solution.
The one with cracked case appears to be working, so far. It also has a slight chipped lens, so I’d like to swap the lenses,too. Or mayebe use the chipped lenses and keep the others as backup, as it shouldn’t affect the picture. For now I’m worried about the case, in the possibility of condensation through the crack
If I swap the lenses, does it need some sort of calibration?
You need to take out the entire unit as a lens assembly, not just a single lens. Do not separate the two lenses. Do not mix-and-match. If you change one lens only, there will be a stitch inconsistency.
Can you just take that one piece of the case from one camera?
If it were me, I would first try waterproof electrical tape over the damaged section and try to use the camera that is working (with the broken side).
Ha, I didn’t think of that!! I thought you would need to take out the whole case for that side piece! But with a flat tweezer I was able to fit it in! So, yeah, I will use it like this for now, as the chip on the lens does not seem to be vizible in the pictures, at least in indoor light.
Yes, of course I was thinking of swapping the whole lens assembly; with that, there is no need for some calibration between the assembly and the motherboard? (for future reference)
This is not supported by ricoh. However, from reading about other people’s experience, it seems like the the lenses are calibrated as an lens unit. The entire unit appears to retain the calibration when used with a different motherboard. I have not tried it.
If it were me, I would not do the swap if I had a working camera even if the side was a little damaged. I would only try the swap if I had no other choice.
Right, keep it as it it for now, and the other one as spare lens and battery. Thank you very much!!!
They both costed me 190$ (in convertion), so I’m happy with that!
